Magic", or "Super Shine"
Its Many Uses
Anthony Manzoli and Taratom
This is Australia's
version of Johnson's "Future" floor polish as shown in the
title photo above.
It is sold in most
supermarket chains across Australia. It is also known as "Super
Shine Magic is not
clear like Future, but the effects are the same.
Most modelers who
use this product apply it as a clear sealer before and after decaling
their models. If too much is sprayed on it can pool easily, so it is
best to spray it in light coats. No thinning is needed.
Great results have
been achieved for matte coats by mixing the Shine Magic "Future"
with Tamiya Flat base. The combination can be mixed anywhere from a
7:1 for extra matte to a 10:1 for a satin matte finish.
This product also
works very well at coating canopies and clear parts. You can simply
dip them in a small receptacle of the Shine Magic and then place them on a
lint free cloth to absorb the excess.
If you make any
mistakes with the Shine Magic you can simply remove it using ammonia
without causing any harm to the clear plastic. Shine Magic, as well as
Future, can be cleaned from an airbrush with ammonia, denatured alcohol,
and isopropyl alcohol. If you have any other tips on using
this product or Future, please email them to me and I will be more then
happy to add them to this article.
Try airbrushing at
20-25lbs. psi, shooting at room temperature. My best results have been
achieved with a Paasche H, using the no. 3 tip. I would think any other
airbrush with a medium tip would be fine.
The 'white or cloudy
effect appears to be an 'etching-chemical' process. I have encountered
that too, even with other acrylic gloss finishes. It's a gremlin that may
have to do with excess decal setting solution application. It is
correctable, but an aggravation, nonetheless.
I have also learned
to apply Future in thin coats. This appears pebbly at first but the effect
disappears with the final finish coat. Wait at least 48 hours before
The day after decal
work, I wash the model with a mild dishwashing surfactant such as Dawn or
a similar agent and, after air drying for a couple of days or more,
another few thin coats of Future are applied to seal the decals-for final
oil-wash and weathering details. I wait at least 48 hours again before I
airbrush Dullcote, Polyscale or Micro flattening finishes. The reasoning
behind the waiting period in applications s based on the possibility that
the Future will not cure entirely before a final finish coat is applied,
thereby inducing hairline cracks all over the model. Waiting and making
sure the drying area is at comfortable room temperature seems to avoid
I once 'shot' a
MIG-15 model with, of all things, Pactra flat aluminum thinned with
lacquer thinner. The finish was wonderfully smooth. I applied Future
within a half day, decaled the beast that night, applied Micro scale's
original polyurethane flat finish the next morning, sat the model on a
shelf...and some three weeks later, you guessed it. Fine hairline cracks
all over. The paint solvents, the Future and the final coat solvents; all
evaporated at different rates with dissimilar shrinking of the finish
coats as well.
Future is a great
product but patience is required in application. I would also recommend
that paint coats be given at least a week to cure prior to airbrushing a
finish coat. This should solve the application of dissimilar paint systems
enamels vs. acrylics] problems too.
I may be lucky, but
I have never had issues with airbrushing enamels over acrylics, different
acrylic combinations, or acrylics over enamels.
Text Copyright © 2001 by Anthony
Manzoli and Taratom
Page Created 26 April, 2001
Last updated 12 June, 2001
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